Several reasons cause neon tetras to die. Some of these causes include stress, poor water conditions, and incorrect aquarium size. Another leading cause is the neon tetra disease, found mostly in neon fish. Heavy concentrations of ammonium and nitrates in the water can be fatal. Appropriate water chemistry helps support healthy neon tetras. Natural bacteria in the water can balance out these contaminants, but fish may die before achieving that balance. A healthy fish tank also has a vibrant bacteria colony.
They live all over the aquarium but are most concentrated in the filter and gravel. These microorganisms help break down the waste in the fish tank and keep the water healthy. They have a symbiotic relationship with neon tetras. Without the neon tetras and their food , the microscopic bacteria colony declines. Without the bacteria, the water becomes unsuitable for the fish. Keep the two in balance to avoid new tank syndrome.
To Prevent : Test your new tank regularly for ammonium and nitrate levels, and change the water to reduce high levels to be safe for neon tetras. Water chemistry in a healthy tank is suitable for resident fish, plants, and bacteria.
Quickly changing massive quantities of water can disrupt the natural chemistry and shock neon tetras, causing unexpected death. You need to change the water occasionally, but sudden changes can be harmful. To Prevent: Change the water slowly, swapping small quantities at a time and waiting days before changing more water so the neon tetras can adapt to gradual chemistry changes.
The water quality in a tank is a key factor in fish health. Check out water salinity levels, pH levels, filtration efficiency, and other quality issues.
Any one of them can be responsible for dead neon tetras. Keeping the water healthy for your neon tetras is critical to avoid premature death. These kits measure nitrates, ammonia, and pH levels. For freshwater tanks, you want to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels at zero and the nitrates below 20 ppm. It is called the neon tetra disease. It is deadly to many species of fish. It is not contagious to humans. This is usually the first symptom that you will see in a dying neon tetra.
There are a lot of things that can cause stress besides a disease. This is the first thing that a neon tetra will experience if the aquarium conditions change and changes in water chemistry.
Make sure that the water is clean because otherwise, unclean water can lead to bacteria infecting the fish with different diseases. Bacteria can make the water very toxic due to the ammonia level in the water, food remains, and fish wastes.
The ammonia cannot only stress your neon tetra out but can also kill them in a matter of days. If you have a fish that has died in your aquarium, you need to move the healthy ones out, clean out the aquarium, and purify the water.
Also, watch to see if any other fish are getting stressed as they could be getting sick. When the neon tetra does not act like its energetic playful self, but restless, this is could mean they are sick or dying. Do not automatically assume they are sick or dying if they are acting restless because other things can make them restless.
For example, when you first introduce them to their new home they might become restless because of new surroundings and possible new aquarium mates. Do keep an eye on them because sometimes they cannot adapt to their new habitat and just die. If you suspect that your neon tetra died from an infection, you should consider replacing the water entirely. That is because the water itself might be carrying the disease.
It would help if you also considered removing the objects in your tank, including plants, rocks, and decorations. I typically recommend that step if you had a mass outbreak of neon tetra disease in your tank.
However, that is not an easy decision to make. It is often said that you should not remove your aquarium plants. They will suck up the chemicals in the water and keep the parameters in check. The most prominent sign for a sick neon tetra is irregular swimming. Sick tetras start surfing the glass where they frantically swim up and down the aquarium wall , swimming in circles, crashing into objects in the tank, dragging their bodies across the substrate, etc.
Some neon tetras will become more erratic in their swimming. You will see them shooting wildly across the tank. Others will become sluggish. They will spend their days hovering in place or laying at the bottom. Some neon tetras may become darker. Others will become lighter. In extreme cases, depending on the disease, a neon tetra will develop cysts, bruises, and lumps all over its body.
In the wild, neon tetras can live for ten years. But in a tank, their lifespan rarely exceeds three years. A neon tetra can stay alive for all three years if it is treated well.
But it can die in hours if you introduce it to a tank with atrocious conditions. Many people think that neon tetras are hard to keep and maintain. But the truth is that they are pretty straightforward to care for. Also, neon tetras are reactive fish, meaning they will show signs of illness as soon as their environment becomes too challenging for them.
Neon tetras are one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish for beginners to start with. Click to expand I just don't want to stress them out. I still feel your temp is a tad too high. Optimum temp for neons is c- f. I would put them in my 10 gallon tank where the temperature is 24C air conditioning but I think that would stress them to death. I don't think the lfs has a chiller or sth. Maybe I should give up with neons They are one of my favourite fish. What do I do wit the 2 neons left?
If they survive I should buy some more to form a school? Only one left, I can't believe it. I give up with neons. I am pretty sure the last one will die too. I feel sorry for them, I really wanted some neons, that's why I bought the plants, dark gravel and stuff. I'm stuck with a 60L tank with 4 cories and a dying neon.
The idea is to put my female betta in there but I can't find compatible fish. Zebra danios are hardy but do they mix well with female bettas? Or should I give the neons another shot? Sorry for your loss. They can be finnicky and part of the reason could be a bad batch from your LFS. I noticed you had a reading of 25 Nitrates. The reading was before the wc so now it should be ok. I added some stressguard, same brand as prime seachem.
I was told that plants need nitrates not below Having used both, I can honestly say that Prime does more and requires the use of much less than AquaSafe. Neofyt: I just want to say sorry for all of your losses, and don't feel left out because I'm going through the same darn thing. I think 2 or 3 died over night. But I think I might know why. I didn't acclimate them to the actual water I just let them float in the bag for a while in my tank without putting actual water from my tank in there to get them used to it.
The rest seem to be doing ok though, but so did the ones that died, so I don't know. Is the nitrate level ever steady? I mean nitrates keep build up until you do a wc and some are absorbed by the plants, right? I'm no expert and want to know more, so feel free to correct me. Also, Kopeth, you have zebra danios, right?
I saw some long-finned ones and some normal zebra danio blue and pink. Do you recomment them for my tank? Keep in mind that a female, non aggressive, betta is to be added. Or do you recommend any other small fish compatible with a female betta?
I'm too scared to try the neons again and cardinals are nowhere to be found here and a 60l 16 gallon tank sure looks empty with 4 small cories.
How would someone be able to bring the acidity of their tank down? I don't agree with the statement about nitrates having to be above 15 for plant success. If you have a fully cycled tank all fish wastes will be processed and converted into nitrates. If you have a densely planted tank your nitrates will be close to 0 as the plants feed of the nitrate.
Also, some plants will also feed off ammonium. But a general rule of thumb is a steady reading of 15 nitrates is better then a fluctuating reading. I just wanted to say that neons were among the first fish I bought when my tank was barely cycled and that they all survived half a year My tank temperature is usually about C but the tetras tolerate it getting up above 30C in summer, but that cools down during the night at least.
If you temperature is too high, try directing a fan over the water surface to cause ripples? I read somewhere that might help lower the temperature. Otherwise you could freeze treated water into icecubes and float them in a plastic bag to try cool the tank. Btw, I wouldn't worry about the neon's fighting and pecking at each other. They do it a lot, that's part of the reason you buy a school - so the bullying is spread out evenly among them a little more.
A note about bettas and danios. I kept my first ever betta RIP Mars! Nobody went near him, he never went near anyone, he was so mellow nothing bothered this boy. But the sheer activity level of my danios freaked him out badly. He stopped eating for 2 weeks, sat on top of the filter and did not do anything until I put him by himself where he went on to thrive.
If you have an immediate backup, I see no reason not to try a community setting, but for this reason, I would be very, very, very reluctant to recommend danios, they are too fast for bettas, based on my experience.
Anw guys and gals the last one just died. No luck at all with neons. I will wait for my tank to mature and try some other fish. Not neons, I felt so sorry removing dead ones everyday, felt like I killed them. So I now have a 16 gallon tank with 4 small cories.
I can't find cardinals at the moment but do you thing that they are hardier or they are more or less like the neons? I want some hardy fish. I saw some long-finned and normal zebra danios and loved them.
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